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Managing indoor air

We spend most of the day indoors. The reason to check the outdoor number at all is to decide what to do inside.

You still need to ventilate on bad days

Keep the windows shut for days on end because of the dust outside, and the air inside becomes worse than the air outside. Carbon dioxide builds up wherever people are, and the volatile organic compounds coming off furniture, wallpaper and cleaning products have nowhere to go.

Korea's environment ministry does not tell people to stop ventilating during high-pollution spells. The advice is to do it briefly and often.

The biggest indoor source: cooking

More often than you would expect, the problem is not the air outside but the pan. Frying and grilling send indoor PM2.5 up several-fold, sometimes by a factor of tens, because oil breaking down at high temperature creates very fine particles.

Vacuuming, changing the bedding, and burning candles or incense also raise indoor dust. A vacuum can blow fine particles back out through its exhaust, so a model with a HEPA filter helps — and following up with a damp mop helps more.

Choosing an air purifier

In order of what actually matters:

Put it slightly away from the wall where air can circulate. In a corner or behind furniture the intake is blocked and performance drops. It clears a room fastest with the door closed.

Humidity: 40–60%

Dry air lets dust stay airborne and dries out the lining of your nose and throat. Once that lining dries, it filters inhaled particles less effectively. Go above 60% and you start growing mould and dust mites instead.

If you use a humidifier, wash the tank and change the water daily. An unmaintained humidifier sprays bacteria into the room. Hanging a damp towel or drying laundry indoors has a similar effect with none of that risk.

When you come home